".. And seeing the vastness of his dominions, Alexander wept because there were no more empires to conquer ... "
Full Path (all photographs of the Blog are expandable).
Full Path (all photographs of the Blog are expandable).
A-Acknowledgements:
of well-born is to be started and this time I have first of all a word of appreciation to those who have collaborated in this venture. Mainly
own merit and I have to thank you for allowing me Nuri, have endured and have helped so many other couples certainly would not have allowed endured or helped. That being "biker consort" and have you to stay home with their offspring while circulating leave you alone more than a month and over rare country become inaccessible to lose the phone, can neither be easy. Heartfelt thanks.
And thanks also to the many friends who have been following almost live via internet my adventures, giving encouragement and making me laugh just a cyber-café in any remote town, and especially to brother Greg has done liaison civilization, publishing the photos or sending messages that would stay again despite the mad desire to accompany me. For
the collaborations that I have received for the trip, I would stress very much PNEUMATICS GUZMAN Prudenci Street Comellas, 38, Manresa,
of well-born is to be started and this time I have first of all a word of appreciation to those who have collaborated in this venture. Mainly
own merit and I have to thank you for allowing me Nuri, have endured and have helped so many other couples certainly would not have allowed endured or helped. That being "biker consort" and have you to stay home with their offspring while circulating leave you alone more than a month and over rare country become inaccessible to lose the phone, can neither be easy. Heartfelt thanks.
And thanks also to the many friends who have been following almost live via internet my adventures, giving encouragement and making me laugh just a cyber-café in any remote town, and especially to brother Greg has done liaison civilization, publishing the photos or sending messages that would stay again despite the mad desire to accompany me. For
the collaborations that I have received for the trip, I would stress very much PNEUMATICS GUZMAN Prudenci Street Comellas, 38, Manresa,
( http://www.manresaportal.com/guzman/ index.html) , not only made tires METZELER cede me a set of tires trail METZELER TOURANCE (perfect for this trip) but in the end the brothers themselves Guzman defrayed the expense and assembly second set of tires. We must acknowledge that apart from being excellent professionals with unbeatable prices, are also a company in whose veins runs the gasoline and collaborate in many major sporting events. Highly recommended. Thank you very much too.
also thank BMW dealer SCRATCH Terrace (Avenida Angel Sallent, 198), for having effectively managed the security of my tires before leaving.
On the other hand, had never sought contributions for a trip mine and certainly not the first time I've done it with great zeal and efficiency, but if I would have liked, for example, walk the name of my city by world , as in other occasions I have seen reports of colleagues travel sponsored by their local authorities. Despite proposing it, and I was very lucky desired (that if), the project could not have any kind of financial support from the Consistory of my city. A pity, but I hope that maybe some other time things may be different.
B-Introduction:
also thank BMW dealer SCRATCH Terrace (Avenida Angel Sallent, 198), for having effectively managed the security of my tires before leaving.
On the other hand, had never sought contributions for a trip mine and certainly not the first time I've done it with great zeal and efficiency, but if I would have liked, for example, walk the name of my city by world , as in other occasions I have seen reports of colleagues travel sponsored by their local authorities. Despite proposing it, and I was very lucky desired (that if), the project could not have any kind of financial support from the Consistory of my city. A pity, but I hope that maybe some other time things may be different.
B-Introduction:
(Tostón dispensable)
A trip is always an invitation to discover not just from remote locations and ignored, but more properly and in depth one same ("gnothi seauton" - Know thyself - said the classics). Such is definitely the main background is acquired as the road away from our home, our people, our cultural icons, our way of speaking, writing, communicating, eating, ..., live in short. The ability to surprise in principle and more in-depth understanding, and ultimately adapt to the difference, is what allows us to define and grow in knowledge and experience.
That is because the true and valuable luggage for the traveler brings together the many photographs that have attempted to capture as always useless feelings that makes us each new moment of the trip: that tingling in your stomach, that absolutely dilated iris , that mouth is slightly ajar when we raise for slaughter look something extraordinary, that boyish smile that is on the lips to the fullness to an unspeakable landscape. This is the exclusive property of the traveler and is completely impossible to convey then to third, as to experience no other way to experience it personally.
may therefore show pictures or videos to bore you probably, and I will try to define more or less success the circumstances that occurred in each episode or experience of the trip, but unfortunately the truth is that we fail to convey those feelings those feelings of joy, satisfaction, of passion, pride, fear or exhaustion that have given me this long and intense journey into my own limits. Either way then, and warned in advance of that lack safe, go beyond this modest chronicle.
On the question of why only embark on a journey of these characteristics, all I can say about the danger, inconvenience and even the madness that was revealed to me and means so insistent and detailed before traveling by family , friends and acquaintances. If ever you are in the chute, hear the arguments and reflect about intimate and sincere, and if after that you have no doubt, abort change the mission and philosophy of the trip because what is needed in such an adventure is clearly an unswerving determination. In my case, I already have certain experience in travel in general and foreign outputs alone with or without the bike (in fact before embarking on this trip I had visited over 40 countries), so I decided to go ahead with whether a friend was with me as if finally it was not possible as it happened. Despite this previous experience and strong determination, I must admit with embarrassment that at times I have sinned trip certainly fledgling Linnet.
Traveling alone is clearly against the uncertainty can not count on anyone if things go wrong or you get hurt, you can not view the decision to take on the right path to find accommodation, etc., failing to share the burden of luggage, especially the tools, and above all, what I miss most lacking is the power to comment and share spectacular or beautiful things you will find in their path, or laugh at the funny circumstances that always appear. In favor, is clearly a decision speed and unsurpassed performance that allows you, for example, take that one has inadvertently awakened at 4 am, to remove the kiosk and follow road without further delay. And please, too, that loneliness and the need to communicate allows you to meet many people who otherwise would not know sure, people who care for you, for your trip, and who practice the Islamic hospitality and invite you to eat, sleep or even a shower at home and to me has happened.
C-Geopolitical Issues: visiting area has different political circumstances and you should know before they do "sensitive" at times this trip.
Serbia:
In Serbia, while the area next to Kosovo, better avoid this topic of conversation from the recent exprovincia becoming independent of it that caused some disturbances.
Turkey:
The border between Turkey and Armenia remains closed over their differences regarding the issue of the Armenian genocide at the hands of the Turks that they do not recognize. No one should ever approach a border crossing next to Mount Ararat. We have to climb to enter Georgia to Armenia.
In the Southeast, is especially delicate situation in Turkish Kurdistan, as the Independence Party of Kurdistan (PKK) a terrorist activity is quite remarkable in recent times, with several attacks a year not only in this area but also in the same Istanbul, as it did when I was around the country. The area is taken by the army and there are multiple controls.
As is meridian, avoid close to the Turkish border with Iraq as the war in that country also involves raids and border skirmishes.
Armenia:
The border between Armenia and Azerbaijan also remains closed due to the Nagorno-Karaback (Azeri portion in the hands of pro-Armenian, which balances the scales with Nachikeván part of that is the opposite, an isolated part of Azerbaijan on Armenian soil.) Do not approach Nagorno-Karabakh, as a visa of this province is reason to deny passage to Azerbaijan. There will also pass through Georgia then.
Georgia: Georgia
is who has better relations with all its neighbors to the south, is also pro-Western and does not require visas to Europe, but has a very unstable political situation and unfortunately it has demonstrated to the current war. At the entrance to the Black Sea should be accessing the republic of Ajaria (Batumi), time zone stable. Further north is the area Abdjacia independence, which apparently is almost out of Georgian control. Better not close. North of Georgia is the area of \u200b\u200bSouth Ossetia that wants to bring Russia (the region of North Ossetia) and was very poorly controlled by the Georgian army (now occupied by Russian). There is real danger of kidnappings of Westerners Ossetians by insurgents. Further east, Georgia borders the Russian region of Chechnya, quite unstable and plagued by guerrillas, and next to the Russian regions of Ingushetia and Dagestan have also been infected by the possibility of kidnappings and other dangers. Conclusion: avoid at all costs the North, and in general all along the border with Russia (this makes it almost impractical to turn the entire Black Sea without ferry as planned two years ago).
Iran:
In Iran, in the western provinces should be avoided near the border with Iraq, apparently because the border is not sealed and there are often many incursions by guerrillas.
In the area of \u200b\u200bIranian Kurdistan also reproduce the same problems in Turkey. Take care in the province of Kermanshah Kurdistan to be feud.
In the East, should be avoided near the Afghan border, as the country remains at war and are constant incursions by the Taliban, and even less with the Pakistani border, as there are many recent terrorist activity in the country politically unstable.
Syria:
Avoid the area near the border with Iraq, of course.
The area of \u200b\u200bthe disputed Golan Heights with Israel is not at all recommended.
generally not approach everything Syria are bases military, border lines, etc., let alone a camera in hand.
Lebanon: The North
be careful in Tripoli, site of several recent attacks, where a couple of months ago was about to erupt again the Lebanese civil war.
Beirut is a place of frequent attacks. In South
best to avoid the border with Israel, provided conflicting and taken by international peacekeepers.
Palestine and Israel (not visit this time):
Apart from its special political situation, we must bear in mind that if he is to return from Syria can not be entered in any such country or be postmarked on passport. They say you can avoid the label to put on a separate sheet, but the trap does not seem feasible if traveling by vehicle and I guess you can not avoid the exit and reentry stamp Jordanian papers of the bike (Carnet de Passage ), and above all there is to see if you can get on the bike itself in Israel (which they could not answer me in the Israeli Embassy in Spain).
remain for another occasion.
This is because in general the geopolitical situation that has not stopped, but has conditioned course, the route chosen for this trip.
D-Prolegomena trip:
1 - Quick start:
One can catch belongings and take to the road and probably resulting from this adventure will be very rewarding, but when the principal values \u200b\u200bof the equation by the shortage are the time and money, it is essential to a prior preparation will be more or less extensive and directly related to the proactive nature of who undertook the journey. In my case, the preparation of travel is usually more than 60% of them, since the use of new technologies, especially Internet, enables accurate forecasting of thousands of such things as lodging reservations, leisure schedules or transportation, administrative formalities, obtaining maps and plans, and prior knowledge of the places worth visiting in our itinerary. I have seen on other occasions that today a trip to Europe can be undertaken with extraordinary foresight and anticipation, no margin for error or surprise, but as we approach and beyond the limits of Western Europe, forecast opportunities are decreasing, and how we move beyond just being absent in part. In short and for example, I can point out that of the 37 nights that have taken this trip was just accommodation bookings for the second, the rest are necessarily decided on the fly, often without just a sad list of hotels possible, as they often did not follow the steps I had forecast pre sitting quietly at the computer. However, the preparation of this trip has dealt with different intensity for almost a year, and yet it clearly had the feeling of having been rather short, especially with respect to the collection and calibration of maps of cities and the list of possible accommodations alluded to earlier, and despite the economic priority was always to try to camp with the little store that is part of the baggage.
concretize some say the first thing was to take the map and see how far where and where, ends often depend on available time and the miles that can be done with it, the paperwork will be needed, and spending that both means. This was because the first priority, seek information from each country and the paperwork required, including Visa and documentation required for the passage of vehicles across its borders without that thing means a definitive import taxable. A particularly useful site is the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (mae.es). For those addicted to the GPS, remember that no browsers themselves with data for more than Slovenia or Croatia might the time, but instead of mapping GPS data on your basic basemap prerecorded. To calculate the miles of stages, until Turkey can really do with "viamichelin.com" (only the western part of Turkey), and even find maps on the Internet, but beyond, the end sure you end up buying a specialized map, so I advise ahead and buy it already and to save for long. Proven useful to the Germans of "Reise Know How", which are laminated to hold moisture very well, and the data are "fairly" reliable, although you could write an encyclopedia about it ...
2 - Procedures:
Most importantly, obtaining visas, because apart from the peace of mind and time savings, some borders are denied visas to nationals who might have obtained in the embassy established in country. Should contact the embassy either directly as you may know personally all the necessary formalities time, costs, etc. Unfortunately, first as a visa of Armenia can not be obtained directly from Spain to the lack of an embassy, \u200b\u200band second in general they have all ordered just before leaving, so you should plan well in order follow so that everyone arrives on time. In my case the order was as follows: Azerbaijan, Iran, Syria, Lebanon and Jordan. Armenia's finally could do it without problems on the land border with Georgia, and Turkey actually works but not as a visa as an entry fee stamp is purchased there on the same border every time you enter (and I went three times ...). Throughout the trip we need more visas to the aforementioned English citizens.
The other essential step is considerable cost and obtain a Carnet de Passage for the vehicle. The entire process takes no more than a few days, but by involving bank guarantees, notarial deeds, etc. it is better to have everything ready. Is this trip necessary in principle for Iran, Syria, Jordan, Lebanon and I was very clear that for Azerbaijan (you can do a transit visa). In some of these countries can spend paying import tax holiday to each entry, but leaves no economically feasible.
3 - Money
For me the only currency purchased prior to departure was the U.S. Dollar, other currencies (and many) on the fly in borders, banks, offices However, street moneychangers and airports. It should be noted that today you can go to beat credit card Visa (not debit) to Turkey included, both with respect to gasoline, and tolls, as I'm in hotels or restaurants of any consequence that I do not frequent. From there you can travel at times with Euros in the European region, and dollars in the area of \u200b\u200bthe East, at least to find easily change the currency, or to get a hotel to be accepted as payment. So including western Turkey can be achieved with some effort put directly euros to pay even small purchases (and in the coastal tourist parts of Turkey is used as currency usual). But there are some countries such as Jordan and Iran which will be very difficult to pay anything other than the currency itself (though again I guess in large hotels or restaurants there should be no such problems.)
A very useful tip is to keep good supply of small bills, both euros and dollars, the latter especially in notes 1 and 5 for small gratuities and bribes, the amount seems more to deliver several notes of equal length that large (in All U.S. currency bills are the same as for despair of the blind ...)
4 - Baggage:
What you can take with you on a bike is necessarily limited to volume and weight. The first big question is if it is camping equipment or not, as this case involves more than half devoted to it, and if you also want to take useful not only for sleeping, but also for cooking, then the issue is complicated. In my case always the priority autoimpongo camping sleeping wherever they can, not only for economic reasons, yes, but also because they sleep in a subway bike, eat with their bags of table and chair, tinkering and fixing minor damage, ultimately share with her overnight stay, is what I like to define as the "quid pro quo" or symbiosis with fellow biker motorcycle, that is, she cares for me and I take care of it .... For a trip like civilized country but usually distant and paved roads in poor condition but is not at all preferred to take my material and kitchen utensils, although some food to take with me that I can help complement the various feasts that often do street fast food stalls that are affordable and do not imply the loss of too much time. The philosophy is always the same: sleep and eat well and I do in my home, and on the way the priority is to fill each day the fuel tank for the bike and have more time to see more.
Another principle I apply to baggage is to keep the bike does not look like a Christmas tree with many things hanging from it, in the light, exposed to rain and the greed of others. Everything should be as closed and discrete as possible. However, the truth is that on a trip that has been circulated to 46 degrees centigrade and have visited many cities, at the end on many occasions the jacket, pants and boots up the bike has spent many hours hanging of panniers ...
must be said that the baggage handling and accessories for carrying extra oil, extra gasoline, extra tools, two spare tires, and diverse food, I also took several months making tools various transport (boxes, bags, etc. ) as seen in many photographs.
E-The bike:
The choice for this trip is "The Black Panther" my usual partner for a year (with some modifications that have been added especially for the purpose of ensuring an even higher load capacity as now say), and whose qualities and has shown me the time we have together.
is a BMW R1200 GS ADVENTURE far has justified why his name. Its storage capacity of 33 l. circular has been instrumental in a very peaceful country where sometimes there were no cities for many miles, or in other I had local currency with which to fill the tank. Its off-road suspension than the standard model were very useful also in Georgia when he had to be a county road, and then also a national magically disappeared and was heavily loaded bike to go over 100 km mountain tracks. More padded seat of the adventure, and the great dome and baffles are useful for these trips absolutely essential for me. Having the drive shaft and not string (to be lubricated periodically) is definitive for comfort for a trip this long.
As useful accessories remarkable besides the defenses that have protected the cylinders in the 5 accidents that the bike has been my fault, also extra xenon bulb that has given me a vision acceptable even in adverse weather conditions.
As I said before, I TOURANCE METZELER tires were supplied by GUZMAN PNEUMATICS METZELER and once again proved as perfect for this type of travel thousands of miles of highway and back, many national and regional roads some in very poor condition, and even high mountain slopes, and many road works gravel, mud and sand (especially in Turkey). The term also has revealed extraordinary and were replaced at the 15,000 kms, but without excessive demands on the time curve could have endured I think about 3 or 4,000 km more in case of emergency.
This was his state to be replaced:
Sumela 
