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DAY 27: "Kapadokya and fairy chimneys": Antakya - ADANA - Derinkuyu - NEVSEHIR-UCHISTAR - Göreme - Avanos. 550 kms.
dismounted the store, I thanked the guy at the gas station the attention of the whole family and went back to the center of Antakya.
Kopru
Plaza.
I came to Adana and found this wonderful mosque (Merkez Camii (Sabanci mosque)).
I took then a while in the city center to connect to a cyber and eating a kebab in a park, and went and made Cappadocia, almost as the last of the major objectives expected.
Before coming to Nevsehir I stopped at one of the underground cities, Derinkuyu. Before the visit did not seem very interested, but the truth is that once inside I was very impressed by the extent and especially the depth of underground caverns, their breathing systems and diversity of placements. Freaks think how many people could live there in well-organized and safe manner, and that even had ramps inside enclosure systems with large circular slabs, the Indiana Jones in a lost temple ...
Cappadocia is a region that includes several municipalities, but the little I knew I wanted to spend the night in Goreme because the Internet will offer multiple hostels and camping sites at reduced prices, including rooms in their own caves. I was not wrong at all. Goreme is the heart and center of the most picturesque village without a doubt. It did not cost much time to find a cheap little hotel (in Turkish tourism context clear). In Goreme also found and several bikers exploring Turkey, or even to an Englishman who was heading to Pakistan.
Compared with backpackers who depend on buses or combinations of public transportation, visit Cappadocia with a bike is a joy because all cities are within walking distance, and the path between them is full of curious rock formations, rocks inhabited groups of fairy chimneys, rock folds of spectacular beauty, troglodyte houses, etc. You spend time with camera in hand because you know you're experiencing something unique in the world. Castle
Uchistar Compared with backpackers who depend on buses or combinations of public transportation, visit Cappadocia with a bike is a joy because all cities are within walking distance, and the path between them is full of curious rock formations, rocks inhabited groups of fairy chimneys, rock folds of spectacular beauty, troglodyte houses, etc. You spend time with camera in hand because you know you're experiencing something unique in the world. Castle
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Goreme Valley.
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Circulating through valleys happy I went to dinner at the nearby village of Avanos. I go into a restaurant and the waiter pointed out a source full of what looked like beef stew. I said OK. I get a can of the refrigerator (in most places to eat drink will you catch yourself) and sit at the table waiting for my bowl of stew. The minutes pass and do not understand how you can take as long to fill a plate and heat it a little. Spend more time and I'm about to ask for explanations when the waiter appears with the dish ... and made it a fantastic pizza with meat that I had chosen as an ingredient in place ... Every day you learn something new!
Then I go back to the hotel in Goreme and a wonderful shower, a perfect bed without having to get up early and slept soundly and loaded the batteries to take another week ultra-trip at least.
The bike fell asleep before the door of the hotel and the owner extremely friendly (and had a couple of BMWs to restore old with sidecar), took his car so the bike was so stuck up as possible to the front door .
Then I go back to the hotel in Goreme and a wonderful shower, a perfect bed without having to get up early and slept soundly and loaded the batteries to take another week ultra-trip at least.
The bike fell asleep before the door of the hotel and the owner extremely friendly (and had a couple of BMWs to restore old with sidecar), took his car so the bike was so stuck up as possible to the front door .
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DAY 28: "The Flintstones." Goreme - Urgup - KONYA - SIDE. 500 kms.
A good lunch in the hotel and continue visiting Cappadocia. I started with the Open Air Museum of Goreme, with houses and churches (Kalesis) early Christian carved into the rock are very curious.
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Two-storey house and attic.
Tree-vase.
Open Air Museum of Goreme.
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table and benches.
then explored the different valleys leading up to the semi-Cave tourist town of Urgup. Everywhere multitude of rock formations, fairy chimneys, rock cones and villages full of stone houses, just like Bedrock (Bedrock) in the series of the Flintstones (Flintstones).
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needle formations.
Urgup.
I continued my journey and after passing through Nevsehir I find an area of \u200b\u200babout 2 kms of gravel and a speed limit sign of 70 km / h. It happens that this speed unless the direction of the bike so I danced a lot with gravel, or whether they circle a bit more cheerful to avoid this dangerous dance. The bad luck is that the end of the stretch me to a police patrol that was with the damn radar ... They do not speak English and drop, but the cautious agent has a booklet with what he has to say written down step by step (Cappadocia is very touristy). I said that I passed the limit and I will crack the equivalent of about 50 euro fine.
I do good, who does not understand what I say, which is a poor tourist and end up angry, but the man keeps to his guns. What I did not do this time is to offer a bribe which I think was what I was looking for. In the end the man stuffed the ticket fine to a penalty of some 75 tankers (!), But instead of asking me the documentation makes the mistake of asking my data (name, city, etc), which is to be difficult that the fine will one day .... However a couple of hours I spent mad by the experience. I finally reached
Konya, which is the spiritual capital of the religious order of the Mevlevi, and where the most visited Mevlana Mausoleum, the tomb and museum founder. Too bad for a day and a half I could see the famous Whirling Dervishes to go round and round with their skirts flipping up to the mystical ecstasy (rather I would say to catch a balloon do not wiggle ...).
I do good, who does not understand what I say, which is a poor tourist and end up angry, but the man keeps to his guns. What I did not do this time is to offer a bribe which I think was what I was looking for. In the end the man stuffed the ticket fine to a penalty of some 75 tankers (!), But instead of asking me the documentation makes the mistake of asking my data (name, city, etc), which is to be difficult that the fine will one day .... However a couple of hours I spent mad by the experience. I finally reached
Konya, which is the spiritual capital of the religious order of the Mevlevi, and where the most visited Mevlana Mausoleum, the tomb and museum founder. Too bad for a day and a half I could see the famous Whirling Dervishes to go round and round with their skirts flipping up to the mystical ecstasy (rather I would say to catch a balloon do not wiggle ...).
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Mevlana Mausoleum.
Next to the mausoleum is also the Mosque of Sultan Selim Camii
I took a short walk around the center of Konya and its bazaar and then went through the Aladdin Mosque (Alaeddin Keykubad mosque), though there is nothing more than spectacular gardens full of attractions and ice cream bars and beverages in which it is located (Allaeddin Tepesi).
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Aladdin Mosque. I did not know to find the lamp.
Hall.
direction I came from Konya to the Mediterranean Sea but the road through a couple of mountain passes, like this in 1825 meters.
The Turkish road conditions is quite unfortunate.
Turkish roads actually have four states: the first is the optimum state to be short-lived because so few are. The second is when they decide who will repair them and spend a bulldozer and mash all the asphalt. It is a heaviness and a threat to stability of the bike. The third is when they pull the gravel on the asphalt crumbs. This phase may last many years and that there are many vertical signs warning of loose gravel movement and slowing down, signals that are not temporary but permanent. And the fourth is when the machine throws the tar without rhyme or reason, leaving the road quite smooth, nonporous, so it is quite slippery.
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This photo shows two of the states of the road at the same time. It is a highway democratic because you choose how falling, whether because of the loose gravel on a rail, or because of slippery tar the other ...
After finally reaching the shores of the Mediterranean, went to the city of Side, which chronicles explain that Antony and Cleopatra enjoyed torrid days of frolicking in their long love beaches. The ruins of Side are not too many but if it's nice to watch them swell.
Remains of the Temple of Apollo.
Remains of the Temple of Apollo.
With night in Cappadocia and the arrival in the Turkish coastal resort towns This trip had suddenly lost any hint of adventure and it was just a tourist trip, as there is no language problem, fuel, customs, food, and even currency, and you can pay even euros. Side center is fully comparable with any English tourist coastal town in the middle of August, with souvenir shops, boutiques, and restaurants full of Germans, Dutch, and (as happens now in the world) of Russians with full wallets rubles. Near the center
found a small camping almost on the beach and planted the store.
found a small camping almost on the beach and planted the store.
Mediterranean Sea back to my now clean, well-deserved bath. On the Side location of the sun is directly on the sea, so stroll along the beach watching the sunset was a very nice time. Number of restaurants offered their services to the tables at the foot of sand.
When the sun took the opportunity to make me a bit of Tai-Chi that he was already in need of a little peace in this hard road.
rosette spray and then a rest in the shop next to the Panther.
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rosette spray and then a rest in the shop next to the Panther.
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DAY 29: "Ruins diverse." Side - ASPENDOS - Perg - KURSUNCU - \u200b\u200bANTALYA - Termessos-PAMUKKALE. 400 kms.
I went to the Roman theater at Aspendos, which is as protected by an outer wall like Bosra but not as impressive as this.
Not far are the ruins of Perge, which I liked the outdoor arena next to the theater.
Then I the waterfalls of Kursuncu despite the green of the trees and streams, any resemblance of the flow of the waterfall with the pictures I had seen was pure coincidence. It is clear that the drought here has also been noticeable.
in Antalya, and although it took a while, with the help of a motorist managed to find a shop to change the tires (Lastik) of the bike.
Despite carrying and 15,000 km, the condition of the tires was still to hold two or three thousand miles without requiring too. A very good durability and wear for their courtesy TOURANCE PNEUMATICS METZELER GUZMAN.
Another
lavadita face.
Then I spent a good time to buy provisions, to connect in a cyber, walking through its streets and eat something before I go. Highlight the door Adriano (Hadrian Kapisi) and the Clock Tower, both in central (famous for its avenues of palms).
Torre Clock.
Hadrian's Arch.
Antalya not far from the ruins of Termessos. In his day very famous because they were the only people of Anatolia and most of the Middle East that was never conquered by the troops of Alexander the Great.
The ruins are nestled in the midst of a protected National Park, and to reach them is small road about 9 km upstream. Then you get to the parking, but you expect a considerable subidita walk and a good time trekking between the rocks to reach the different debris is scattered all over the mountain. It is clear that never lapsed. Who the hell would want to go up there and for what? I walked a couple of hours up there and I found no other tourists, since as I said is a more challenging trekking trip to visit a classic architectural remains.
Coffin.
Tombs carved into the rock.
Of the buildings and tombs that would emphasize the pipes are underground and six large underground water tanks that supplied the city and could withstand a long siege. They also highlight the remnants of his theater with superb views. I sat for a while and with the peace of the environment was easy to imagine all the villagers gathered in the ancient stands as the chief told them that the heavy Alejandro again besieged by hunger, and would need to call cousin to Turkish Panoramix to make a little miracle potion to throw out the invader ...
again undertook the road and after crossing a few mountains came to Denizli and a little later to Pamukkale.
Again I ignored him one of the Cazatur offered me his little hotel and left to haggle over the price, and again the thing went very well. The Hotel Pamukkale is highly recommended and family. Family girls go running around the pool and banging your computer you can use gratistotal. Has room for your tent and swimming pool, but room and bathroom were perfect and the little price difference I preferred to rest a little better, the body is a temple there to watch if there occasion. I
spreads in bed after a swim in the pool that collects water flowing down from Pamukkale and Hierapolis. The bike fell asleep in the courtyard.
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DAY 30: "Cotton Castle" - Pamukkale - APHRODISIAS - BODRUM. 400 kms
After
typical Turkish breakfast I prepare to visit the natural wonder of Pamukkale, the "Cotton Castle" which is a white mountain covered with calcium and with multiple waterfalls / Pool / stalactites formed by the calcium oxide water that overflows every night. In addition, the top of the mountain are the Roman ruins of Hierapolis and its thermal baths.
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Tips: Rule number one is to go light clothes because you might end up safe swimming trunks and nothing else. Rule two is to bring easy to remove shoes (flip flops), because then the guards is prohibited and scold you to blow a whistle. And rule number three is to skip to the bullfighter when you can get into the prohibitions and to allay the natural plunge pool heat.
The site is beautiful and even romantic I would say. May argue against the ancient and the original has banned access to the public and it can only take pictures, but the truth is that the most modern in the guard misled, was filled with people bathing in very special bathtubs, myself included, of course.
After soaking grateful I am writing to Aphrodisias and once there, visited the museum with an outstanding collection of classical marble statues. After the various ruins of which stand a theater large enough and well preserved, and especially the beautiful double porch entrance to the temple of Aphrodite.
Spectacular Tetrapylon the porch.
Fighting again with the status of the Turkish interior roads now came to the Aegean Sea, in particular to Bodrum, ancient Halicarnassus, site of what was one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, the tomb of Mausolus (Mausoleum of Halicarnassus).
Bodrum is no doubt, like Side, another city overrun by a more traditional holiday. Stresses and dominates over the magnificent city of San Pedro Cruzado Castillo.
Panther also in the Aegean Sea.
Halicarnassus and the Crusader Castle of San Pedro overlooking the bay.
Bodrum beach.
arrived
the Aegean Sea as tradition demanded I take a good swim in the beach of Bodrum.
Castle / Fort San Pedro.
absolutely City Desk. In the supermarket everything becomes easy.
Even knowing that there is nothing left of it, I go to where one day (first century 4 AC) Artemis, the widow (and sister) had built a good satrap Mausolo greatest memorial that remembers and which has given everyone else (Mausoleum). But their once great height of 50 meters there is nothing standing after several earthquakes and destruction of the city (including the first on our very own Alexander the Great), and that centuries later the stones will use the Knights Cross for build the Castillo de San Pedro.
I leave the city heading north to finish in one of the smaller campsites the sea which I had seen on arrival. Planted the tent and sleeping next to the bike I still have problems.
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DAY 31: "Jellyfish, Oracles and Troy." Bodrum - Didyma - EPHESUS - IZMIR - TROY - KANAKKALE - Orestias (Greece). 900 kms.
be back to get up early (about 5 am many days), because today the day will be long in miles and things to do.
first is closer to Didyma to see the man who was one of the largest temples built in the Apollo. I got a hour and a half before the doors opened, but the back of the ruin is a half-destroyed wall that allowed me to effortlessly get a moment, at least to see the impressive width of the columns (the reels of the fallen columns are everywhere), and to give him a good picture of the famous Medusa Didyma.
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Temple of Apollo, had to be really spectacular.
This temple of Apollo was where the oracle of the Sibyl, but despite that I tried to listen to the provisions of the oracle about the future, I spent Like a few months ago at the Oracle of Delphi (Greece), the only answer was a nasal voice saying .... "Has the future? ... Listen to this future crisis is nothing I ... "
La Medusa.
next thing it was directed at Ephesus, archaeological site with more authority of the many that exist in the Turkish coast. The first half of the visit I made to the ruins almost empty and I enjoy it, but when the tourist buses arrived it was like tally the "scrum" and does not take long to make "exits through the forum" literally.
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Theatre of Ephesus.
There are many Greek and Roman ruins, temples, houses, gates and ancient sources (Ninfeón), but two things stand out above the rest: the fabulous theater, really large (24,000 spectators) and well preserved, and especially the impressive facade of the Celsus Library Proconsul.
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Temple of Hadrian (Hadrianus Tapinagi).
Relief of winged Nike. (Pal you do not know, Nike = Victoria, hence the origin of the brand sports ... I'll never lie down without knowing a thing ...).
Mega-Super facade of the Celsus Library.
I was looking for yet another impossible: the remains of another of the seven wonders of the ancient world, the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus. But the search was totally sterile, since it appears that the temple is located outside the site of the ruins, towards Selçuk.
When I finally discovered I could confirm again that no wonder it was almost nothing, because only one column remains of the great temple that was full of Vestal dedicated to the worship of Artemis (Diana the Huntress). The decoration was entrusted to Scopus, and the temple was destroyed by fire by a shepherd named Herostratus simple desire for fame. It is said that "for every one Herostratus Scopus always." Alexander the Great (the same notes that had swept sympathetic Halicarnassus), ordered to reconstruct the temple of Artemis, when he learned the initial destruction took place the day of his birth, but after the earthquakes and looting ended with him again.
I still north to Izmir (Smyrna) to find the Konak Square with its famous clock tower (Saat Kulesi) and Yali Camii Mosque (also Konak Camii), which proved to be much smaller than I expected.
. Yali
Camii.
Saat Kulesi.
start from the square the streets that form the Kemeralti Bazaar, and it is the former Han Caravanserai Kizlaragasi
take the ride to eat at a street chiringitos and, as with a full stomach, I moved more toward the north across the Aegean Coast of Turkey.
mid-afternoon came to Troy (Truva) mythical place to me for the war that broke out in her after the abduction of the beautiful Helen of Sparta (wife of Menelaus) by Paris of Troy. And love comes to me not because of the spectacular recent film Brad Pitt, but illustrated pocket books of the Odyssey and the Iliad of Homer that my mother (the old world amateur), I had to read when nano. That is to get out of house and travel the world in search of adventure and danger as Ulysses (Odysseus) first by going to the Trojan War and then trying to return to Ithaca, I come to me from afar ...
Ruins Troy, in its current state, are worthless. Neither rich nor high walls, palaces, even the beach (where Hector and Achilles handing the first Claymore) that is further away than it invented the movies (see the sea can be seen, but there will be about five miles). Have been discovered up to 10 cities superimposed but only appreciate some walls, a small theater and little else.
. Inevitable
however the picture in front of the reproduction of large and clever Trojan horse that served to his downfall.
however the picture in front of the reproduction of large and clever Trojan horse that served to his downfall.
Mini-Castle "?
Mini-theater.
day yet I came to Canakkale (they pronounce it "chanákale"), and after a short I got the bike waiting for the ferry (ferriboat) to go through the famous Straits of the Dardanelles that separates Europe from Asia, which was crossed at the time by the Persian army of Xerxes (Xerxes), or by the Macedonian Alexander the Great in opposite directions.
The feeling of leaving and returning to Asia and Europe was a mixture of sadness, satisfaction and excitement to return home
The sun sets in Turkey.
still circulating Turkey Night fell and I got to the diversion of "Yunanistán" (Greece). And after dinner and I had no Turkish currency and wanted to ride the bike for Hellenic lands, spent output Turkish border and the Greek entry to feel again in the European Community, if only for a few hours, and also to pay accommodation in Euros (the hell time in a month) without having to go computing.
But the plans did not go as planned because I had not yet made the psychological adjustment of returning to Europe. The road leading to Bulgaria through a two villages and a town (Oresteia). In small towns and in no hotels were Oresteia (which seemed to me a glitzy city filled with high-end vehicles (cars and motorcycles) and smart people dining in restaurants and terraces) which were very expensive there so I was then used. Total
I'm pulling and after a while I stand at dawn at the Greek border and smooth passage.
about 100 meters from the window of the customs offices are closed for a bank to have a side yard with grass, a fence that isolates it from the furtive glances and a huge neon sign that prevents you from almost see what behind. White and cylinder = milk, or I got the bike in the yard of the bank, behind the hedge, planted the sleeping bag and bivy and went to sleep under a starry sky counting shooting stars extraordinarily next my constant companion.
This was the wild bivouac at the Greek border.
But the plans did not go as planned because I had not yet made the psychological adjustment of returning to Europe. The road leading to Bulgaria through a two villages and a town (Oresteia). In small towns and in no hotels were Oresteia (which seemed to me a glitzy city filled with high-end vehicles (cars and motorcycles) and smart people dining in restaurants and terraces) which were very expensive there so I was then used. Total
I'm pulling and after a while I stand at dawn at the Greek border and smooth passage.
about 100 meters from the window of the customs offices are closed for a bank to have a side yard with grass, a fence that isolates it from the furtive glances and a huge neon sign that prevents you from almost see what behind. White and cylinder = milk, or I got the bike in the yard of the bank, behind the hedge, planted the sleeping bag and bivy and went to sleep under a starry sky counting shooting stars extraordinarily next my constant companion.
This was the wild bivouac at the Greek border.
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